Method used in the manufacture of shoes



June 1, 1943. G. F. RYAN METHOD USED IN THE MANUFACTURE OF SHOES Filed March 24, 1941 4 Sheets-Sheet l June 1, 1943. G. F. RYAN METHOD USED IN THE MANUFACTURE OF SHOES Filed March 24, 1941 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 June 1, 1943.

G. F. RYAN METHOD USED IN THE MANUFACTURE OF SHOES Filed March 24, 1941 4 Sheet-Sheet 3 Jime 1, 1943. G. F. RYAN 2,320,475

METHOD USED IN THE MANUFACTURE OF SHOES Filed March 24, 1941 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 Patented June 1, 1943 UNITED STATES PATENT, OFFICE METHOD ossn IN THE MANUFACTURE or snoas George F. Ryan, Peabody, Mass, assignor to United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Flemington, N. J., a corporation of New Jersey Application' March 24, 1941, Serial No. 384,880

17 Claims. (Cl. 12-442) This invention relates to shoes and the manufacture thereof and is illustrated herein with ref erence to methods of making single sole shoest Important objects of the invention are to provide an improved method of making shoes of the type referred to and to provide an improved method of attaching heels to shoes. 3

With these objects in view, the invention provides in one aspect an improved method in which a shoe upper is secured in overlasted position on a last, and a sole member having its marginal portion split to form inner and outer layers or flaps is placed on the last after which the overlasted margin of the upper i inserted between the flaps of the sole member and attached thereto by cement by outward pressure exerted by introducing fluid pressure between the last and the sole member, the last and sOle member being held against movement away from each other during such action. As herein illustrated, the upper may be held on the last by special clamping means provided for that purpose and its margin may be maintained in overlasted position b stiff ening said margin as, for example, with the aid of a temporary sole piece to which the m trgin cf the upper may be attached until said margin has set sufficiently to permit removal of the temporary piece.

The outward pressure for attaching the sole member to the upper is applied, as herein illustrated, by means of a last the bottom of which is formed by an inflatable vessel contained in a recess in'the last and arranged to be expanded by inflation to press the inner flap of the sole member and the upper margin outwardly against the outer flap, the sole member and last being supported against movement away from each other during this action and the sole member be ing held in engagement with a rigid surface which is preferably complemental to the shape the sole member is tohave in the finished shoe.

In accordance with another aspect, the invention provides an improved method of attaching heels to shoes in the practice of which a heel is located relatively to a shoe on a last with cement on its attaching face and on the opposing surface or the sole portion of the slime, after which the shoe and heel are supported against movement away from each other while fluid pressure is introduced between the last and said sole portion to press the sole portion outwardly against the attaching face of the heel until the cement sets to attach the heel permanently to' the shoe. The action of this outward pressure is such that the sole portion of the shoe is forced the heel so that all portions of the opposing sur-' to conform to the shape of'the attaching face of faces of the sole and heel are brought into complete or continuous engagement with each other, thereby insuring a strong and permanent attachment of the heel to the'shoe bottom.

With the above and other obj cts and aspects in view, the invention will now be described in connection with the accompanying drawings and will thereafter be pointed out in the claims.

In the drawings,

Fig. 1 is a perspective view of a sole member for use in carrying out the present invention;

Fig. 2 is a perspective view of a, last adapted for usewith the invention, the last bottom being provided with a recess containing an inflatable vessel;

Fig. 3 is a perspective view of clampingmeans -arranged to hold a shoe upper on the last of Fig. 6 is a perspective view similar to Fig.

illustrating the removal of the temporary sole piece;

Fig. 7 is a perspective view similar to Fig. 4

with the sole member of Fig. 1 located on the last bottom;

Fig. 8 is a side elevation partly in section of the last and shoe mounted on a supporting bed having a rigid upper surface, the inflatable vessel in the last being expanded by fluid pressure to cause the upper to become attached by ,cement to the sole member;.

Fig. 9 is a transverse section through the forepart of the shoe but with the inflatable vessel only partially expanded by fluid pressure;

Fig. 10 is a transverse section similar to Fig. 9 after the vessel has been fully expanded, as in Fig. 8; and

Fig. 11 is a side elevation similar to Fig. 8

illustrating the attachment of a heel to the shoe by inflation of the-vessel in the last.

, In carrying out the improved method ing shoes having single soles, as herein illustrated, a sole member 20 of the shape and size desired for the finished shoe'is provided and this sole member is splitinwardly from its edge face,

of mal as .shown at 22 (Fig. 1), to form an inner layer i as Wide as the usual lasting allowance of a shoe upper and, as shown in Fig. 1, the out is located nearer to the top or inner surface of the sole member than to its outer surface. The split or cut 22 may be made while the material of the sole member is in temper and somewhat soft and preferably the inner flap 24 may, as illustrated in Fig. 1, be bent upwardly away from the outer flap 26, which is left flat to form the outer or tread portion of the sole in the finished shoe.

The inner flap 24 should also be cut narrower than the outer layer or flap 26, preferably at the time the sole member is split, to reduce the inner flap 24 to the proper size to form the inner sole portionpf the sole member in the finished shoe.

A last 36 (Fig. 2) is provided which, as herein illustrated, may-be of the type disclosed in Pat- 'tent No. 2,265,398, granted December 9, 1941, on

an application filed in my name, and which, as shown in Fig. 2, has a recess or cavity 32 extending throughout its bottom portion, this recess being enclosed by a side wall 34 the upper edge or rim 36 of which conforms accurately in size and shape to the inner portion of flap 24 ofthe sole member 26. The last 36 is preferably composed of metal, such as aluminum alloy, and may be'of the hinged or jointed type, as shown at 36 (Fig. 2), the last being preferably hollow to. reduce its weight. The wall 34 of the recess 32 is relatively thin at its upper edge 36 but it gradually thickens toward the bottom of the recess, as shown in Figs. 4 to 6, inclusive.

Located in the recess 32 is an inflatable vessel 46 (Fig. 2), such as a rubber bladder, which is shaped to correspond approximately to the shape of the recess 32. The rubber bladder or vessel 46 may be connected bya tube 42 to a portion of the last that will not be covered \by a shoe upper, for example, as herein illustrated, the tube 42 may communicate with a usual last pin or thimble hole 44 provided at the cone portion of the last, thereby providing a continuous passage for inflating the vessel- -As' disclosed in my prior patcut, the toe end of the inflatable vessel may be reinforced with an extra thickness of material 46 and preferably also the opposite marginal or side portions of the vessel are likewise reinforced by extra thicknesses of material, as shown at 41 in Figs. 2, and 9. The tube 42 may be provided with a valve 46 similar to a tire valve for maintaining pressure in the vessel after it has been inflated.

In addition to the last 36'there is also provided a clamping device or apparatus 66 (Fig. 3) adapted to he placed around the last 36 to clamp a shoe upper thereon after the upper has been mounted on the last in the usual manner. As illustrated in Fig. 3, the clamping apparatus 66 comprises a forward frame-like member 52 shaped like the forepart of the last 36, and a rear frame-like member 64 shaped to conform substantially to the shank and heel portions of the last. The frame-like members 62 and 54 of the apparatus are skeletonized or cut away, as shown in Fig. 3, so that the forward member 52 provides a continuous band portion 56 for clamping the upper against the last 36 around the lower portion thereof and adjacent to the last formed by the wall 34 of the recess 32, this band increasing in width toward the ball portion of the last and being supported across the forepart by two rigid cross pieces or straps 56 and 66 ar- 5 ranged respectively to engage the last in the vicinity of the tip line and the ball portion.

The rear member 54 of the clamping device likewise provides a continuous surface or band 62 for clamping the upper against the lower portion of the last adjacent to the last bottom at the shank and heel portions of the last 36, this rear member 54 having a lower strap 64, as viewed in Fig. 3, arranged to extend around the heel portion of the last some distance away from the clamping band 62.

As shown in Fig. 3, the clamping members 52, 54 are' constructed from relatively thin sheet material, preferably metal, which may be bent into the desired shape, for example, around the last itself to form the frame portions of the clamping members. These frame portions are preferably lined with a layer 66 of relatively soft or resilient material, such as rubber, so that the members will not injure the upper when they clamp; it against the last. The members 52, 64 are connected to each other by two pairs of springs 16 and 12 extending between the two members at opposite sides thereof, these springs being secured to the clamping members in any suitable manner as, for example, by being hooked into holes in U-shaped metal pieces 14 fastened to the outer surfaces of the clamping members.

It will be seen from Fig. 3 that the clamping members 52, 54 may be pulled apart manually against the tension of the springs 16, I2 and the members then placed around thelast 36 after an upper has been mounted thereon. Release of the members 52, 54 permits the springs 16, 12 to draw the clamping members forcibly toward each 40 other, thereby clamping the upper firmly against the last, particularly around its lower portion adjacent to the last bottom, which portion, as stated, is formed by the wall 34 of the recess 32. The tension of the opposite pairs of springs 16. 12 determines the pressure which will clamp the upper against the last and this pressure may be varied, of course, by changing the sizes of the springs I6, 12. Moreover, since the clamping members comprise merely thin frame portions 50 lined with resilient material, they are relatively flexible and can conform themselves somewhat to the shape of the last 36 so that the upper will be 'firmly engaged by the clamping members substantially around the entire last. The clampin 65 device may be readily applied to the last. as

stated, by pulling the two clamping members away from each other against the tension of the springs 16, 12 and mounting the apparatus on the last over the top portion thereof.

In carrying out the method with the aid of the apparatus described above, a shoe upper 16 (Fi 4) is mounted on the last 36 in the usual nranner and is held in position by the clamping 65 apparatus 56. As shown in Fig. 4, the members 52, 54 of the clamping apparatus press the upper tightly against the last around the lower portion thereof and adjacent to the last bottom which, in the present instance, is defined by the edge or rim of the wall 34. If necessary or desirable the upper may be pulled closely against the last with pincers or in any other usual manner to obtain a tight lasting operation. The marginal portion 18 of the upper will extend upwardly beyond the bottom, or in other words, against the portion 6 cla ped P rtion of the upper substantially at marg n of the upper. .2 complished by deflating the vessel 40 to remove it from engagement with the temporary sole piece right angles to the plane of the last bottom. This marginal portion I8 is now trimmed so that it will be substantially uniform in'width around '1 the entire last, the trimming operation being performed in any usual or known manner and preferably by a trimming cutter which is guided with respect to the top edge of the wall 34 to obtain the uniform result.

The inflatable bladder or vessel 40 is next partially inflated by the introduction of fluid pressure through the passage 44, 42 (Fig. 2.) .until the, recess 32 in the last'is substantially filled or,;

in other words, until the upper wall'of the yessel, j

temporary sole piece 80 cut to the desired insole.

shape from a piece of canvas, paper or similar material is placed on the bottom surface of the last formed by the wall of the vessel 40. The inner surface of the upstanding margin 18 of the upper is coated with cement such, for example, as latex, and cement is also applied to the margin of the upper surface of the temporary sole piece 80. Since a shoe upper is usually composed of a leather outer layer and a fabric lining. and since it also usually has an intermediate layer at its rear portion formed by a fiber counter, an intermediate layer or doubler at its forepart and, in some cases, a fiber toe piece for a box toe, the several layers of materials forming the upstanding margin of the upper may at this time be secured together by applying cement between the layers. thereby preventing the layers from slipping relatively to each other. If more convenient this operation may, of course, be performed before the upper is mounted on the last. Besides holding the layers of the upper intact, the cement will have a tendency to stiffen the margin of the upper so that. if performed before the trimming operation, this latter operation will be facilitated. Moreover. the stiffening of the margin of the upper also tends to cause the u per to remain in r overlasted position without additional securing means after the margin has once been wiped over and set in such position.

After the cement has been applied as described to the upper and sole piece 80, the marginal portion of the upper-is bent or wiped inwardly and downwardly against the upper surface of the sole piece, this operation being performed by any suitable lasting means such as'wipers or, if desired, by hand. The cement between the terriporary piece 80 and the margin of the upper holds the margin securely in overlasted position, as shown in Fig. 5. After the cement has set, the temporary sole piece 80 may be removed from the shoe bottom, or at least that portion of the sole piece which extends inwardly of the overlasted This may be readily ac- 80, and then by cutting through the temporary piece along the inner edge of the overlasted margin of the upper with a knife 82, as illustrated in Fig. 6. The portion of the temporary sole piece 80 which underlies the inner surface of the overlasted margin of the upper will, of course,

While the-surface provided by the wall of remain cemented to this margin and will have the effect of further stiffening the upper margin so that it will remain in overlasted position without the aid of the temporary sole piece 80.

While the inflatable vessel is still deflated the sole member 20, prepared as shown in Fig. 1, and having activated cement 84 (Fig. 7) such, for example, as pyroxylin, applied to the inner or adiacent surfaces of its inner and outer marginal layers or flaps 24, 26, is placed on the bottom of the last, as illustrated in Fig. 7, with the outer flap 26 overlying the overlasted margin 18 of the ,upper, and with the inner flap 24 extending inside .the overlasted margin so that this margin becomes inserted between the two flaps entirely around the shoe bottom. If pyroxylin cement is used it should, of course, be activated just prior to placing the sole member on the last bottom and preferably also cement should be applied to the overlasted margin!!! of the upper and activated.

After the sole member 20 has been assembled with the upper on the last 30, as shown in Fig. 7. the clamping device may be removed by simply gripping the apparatus with both hands, as ex plained above,'and separating it longitudinally of the shoe against the force of the springs Hi, 12. However, removal of the clamping apparatus at this time is optional and it may be preferable in some cases to permit it to remain in position on the last to hold the upper during subsequent operations on the shoe since the apparatus is constructed so that it can remain on the last with out interfering with such operations. As illustrated herein, the clamping apparatus has been removed after the sole member 20 has been mounted on the last. The last and shoe, including the sole member 20, may be placed on a rigid support or bed 86 (Fig. 8) preferably composed of metal, and the upper surface 88 of which, as described in my prior patent, is carefully shaped so that it is complemental to the shape which it is desired that the sole member have in the finished shoe. The support or bed 86 with the shoe located thereon may then be placed in a machine for attaching soles to shoes by cement such, for example, as a machine of the type disclosed in Letters Patent of the United States No. 2,047,185, granted July 14, 1936, on an application of Milton H. Ballard et al. The cement sole attaching machine is provided with pressure applying abutments 90, 92 arranged respectively to engage the cone of the last 30 and the toe portion of the shoe upper 16. Theabutments 90 and 92 may be caused to move downwardly under power to apply a relatively light pressure to the last and shoe to press them against the'bed 86 and thereby hold the parts against displacement or moveent away from each other after they have been located in the machine.

Fluid under pressure, such as compressed air, is next introduced into the inflatable vessel 40 through the tube or passage 44, 42 to inflate the vessel, as shown in Fig. 8, and thereby to apply pressure between the last 30 and the sole member 20 to press the inner flap 24 of the, sole member andthe margin I8 of the upper outwardly against the outer flap 26 of the sole member which, however, is now positively supported against outward 'the supported outer flap 26, the upper and the sole member are caused to become permanently attached toeach other by cement and. at the same time, the lower or'tread surface of the sole member is conformed to a predetermined final shape imparted thereto by the rigid surface 88.

These results may be accomplished with considerable uniformity and accuracy because the inflatable vessel lfl'expands first at its central or thinner portion and then at its thicker side portions in a manner that produces an outward and downward motion against the sole member which is advantageous in first laying and then pressing the inner flap and upper margin downwardly against the outer flap 26 of the sole member.

This progressive laying actionof the vessel 40 is best illustrated in Figs. 9 and 10, which show two v strong and permanent bond between the upper and sole member around the entire margin of the sole member. It should also be pointed out that since the rubber vessel 40 is confined and supported on all sides either by the metal last 30, the wall 34, or the sole member 20, any desired pressure can be applied by the introduction of fluid into the vessel which further insures a strong and permanent bond between the sole member and shoe upper and also causes the outer or tread surface of the sole member to be conformed accurately to, the shape of the supporting surface of the rigid bed, thereby imparting to the tread surface of the sole member the particular shape desired in the finished shoe without regard to the condition of the other parts of the shoe, such as the thicknesses of the lasting margin or of the inner and outer flaps of the sole member, and so iforth.

The sole member 20 is provided with the usual breast leaf or flap 94 (Figs. 1 and 7) and, during 'the sole attaching and conforming operations just described, the breast flap 94, as illustrated in Fig. 8. may be positioned fiat against the adjoining surface of the sole member. It is desirable in connection with the present method of making shoes, however, to attach a heel to the shoe bottom by the use of cement alone. Accordingly, after the sole attaching operation has been performed, the last and shoe with the attached sole may be removed from the rigid supporting bed 86 and placed in another bed 96 (Fig. 11) which is identical with thebed 06 so far as its sole engaging surface 98 is concerned, but which is provided at its rear portion with a cavity or opening I especially shaped toreceive a precovered and finished heel I02 which is to be attached by cement to the heel seat portion of the sole member 20, the heel being provided with a usual top lift I03. As disclosed in my prior patent, the heel receiving cavity I00 is provided around its rear and side walls with a lining I04 of cushioning material such as rubber for engaging and supporting the heel. If it is desired to use only one supporting bed in practicing the method, the bed 96 with theheel receiving cavity I00 may be used in the sole attaching operation as well as in the heel attaching operation by merely filling the cavity with a plug such, for example, as the heel aeaaews which is later to be attached to the shoe but which, of course, at this time is not prepared for attachment to the shoe and merely serves as a support for the heel portion of the shoe.

The heel I02 may be roughened on its attaching face I06, which is cupped or concave as shown in Fig. 11, and cement such as pyroxylin may be applied to this, attaching face and allowed to dry until just before the heel is to be attached, at which time the cement will be activated by a suitable solvent. The heel seat portion of the vsole member 20 may be fitted in the usual manner to receive the heel and this surface may also be coated with pyroxylin cement which is allowed to dry but which at the time of attachment will be activated. The heel I02 is mounted in the recess I00, as shown in Fig. 11, and the heel breast flap 94 is positioned against the breast of the heel in front of which is provided a rubber bag or bladder I08 by the expansion of which the breast flap will be forced against the breast face of the heel, the breast flap and heel, of course, being coated with cement before the operation is performed. The rigid bed 96 may be mounted in the cement sole attaching machine, as described above, and the pressure applying abutments 90 and 92 moved downwardly into engagement with the last and shoe to apply suificient pressure to prevent the parts from moving away from each other or becoming otherwise displaced.

The infiatable vessel may now be inflated, as described above, and simultaneously therewith the rubber bag I08 may be inflated by fluid under pressure from the same source as that which supplies the vessel 40. The heel breast flap 94 is thus cement attached to the breast face of the heel I02 and, through the outward pressure ap-' plied by the inflatable vessel 40 against the heel seatportion of the shoe bottom, that is, against the sole member 20, the heel seat portion of the sole member is pressed outwardly, or downwardly as viewed in Fig. 11,'into engagement with the concave attaching face I06 of the heel I02. Since a very heavy pressure can be applied throughxinfiation of the vessel 40 and, moreover,

since the heel I 02 is held positively against movement in the bed 96 and is fully supported during the inflating action, it will be seen that the heel seat portion of the sole member 20 will be forced to conform accurately to the shape of the attaching faceof the heel. It will be clear, therefore, that the cement attachment of the heel I02 to the sole member 20 can be made very strong because the sole member is pressed outwardly into engagement with all portions of the attaching face of the heel or, in other words, the sole member is forced to conform exactly to this attaching face so that all portions of the opposing surfaces will be brought into actual contact and will thus become cement attached to each other, which might not be true if the bottom of the last 20 were solid and merely pressing downwardly against the solid or unyielding attaching face of the heel with the materials forming the shoe bottom located therebetween.

In this latter case it might be pointed out that the materials comprising the shoe bottom would, in effect, be receiving a molding or compressing action between two solid unyielding surfaces provided by the bottom surface of the last and the attaching face of the heel. While some compression would obviously take place under such conditions, so that the greater portions of the shoe bottom and heel would probably be brought the minor irregularities or humps and hollows that might exist in the bottom surface of .the

' alone. In accordance with the present invention, however, it will be clear that by pressing the heel seat portion of the sole member from the inside outwardly against the heel by fluid pressure and thereby actually conforming it to the attaching face of the'heel, all portions of the. opposing-surfaces, including any irregular portions, are brought into complete engagement with each other throughout their entire areas. Accordingly, the heel I02 may ,be attached to the shoe by cement alone with a bondthat is sufficiently strong and permanent to" hold the heel on the shoe during the life of the .shoe.

Having thus described my invention, what I claimas new and desire 'to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. That improvement in methods of making shoes which comprises mounting a shoe upper on a last andplacing a sole member thereon which has its marginal portion split to form inner and outer flaps, inserting the margin of last with cement on the margin of the upper, wiping said margin into overlasted position relatively to the last and holding it there until the cement sets to cause the margin to remain in such position, placing a sole member on the last with the marginal portion of said sole member split inwardly from its edge face around the sole the upper between said flaps with cement on shoes which comprises mounting a shoe upper on a last and locating it in position thereon, placing a. sole member On the last with its marginal portion split inwardly from its edge face to form inner and outer flaps, inserting the margin of the upper between said inner and outer flaps with cement on said margin and said flaps, se-

curing the lower portion of the upper against movement to prevent said margin from being withdrawn from between said flaps, holding the last and sole member against movement away from each other, and introducing fluid pressure between the last and sole member to apply pressure to said sole member to press said inner flap and the upper -margin against said outer flap and thereby attach the sole member by cement to the upper.

3. That improvement in methods of making shoes which comprises securing a shoe upper in overlasted position on a last, mounting a sole member on the last with its marginal portion split to provide inner and 'outer flaps, locating the overlasted margin of the upper between said inner and outer flaps with cement on said margin and said flaps, clamping the upper against the last to prevent said margin from moving out from between said flaps, and, while maintaining the last and sole member against relative movement away from each other, introducing fluid pressure between the last bottom and the sole member to apply uniform pressure to said sole member to press the inner flap of the sole member and the overlasted margin of the upper outwardly against said outer flap, thereby cement attaching. the sole member to the shoe upper.

4. That improvement in methods of making shoes which comprises mounting an upper on a member to form inner and outer flaps, inserting the overlasted margin of the upper between said flaps with cement on said margin and said flaps,.

clamping'the upper against the last adjacent to the last bottom to prevent said margin from being forced out from between said flaps, supporting the last and sole member against relative movement away from-each other, and introducing fluid pressure between the last and the inner surface of the sole member to apply pressure to said inner surface to press the inner flap of the sole member and the margin of the upper outwardly against said outer flap, thereby causing the sole member to become permanently attached to the upper by cement.

5. That improvement in methods of making shoes which comprises mounting an upper on a last and clamping it against the last adjacent to the last bottom to hold the upper in position thereon, placing a sole member on the last with flaps, holding the last and sole member against movement away from each other, and while holding the upper against the. last, introducing fiuid pressure between the last and sole-member to apply pressure uniformly to said sole member to press said inner flap and the upper margin outwardly against the outer ,flap and thereby cause the sole member to become cement attached to the margin of the upper.

6. That improvement in methods of making shoes which comprises mounting a shoe upper on a last and clamping it against the last at least adjacent to the last bottom substantially around th entire last, thereby holding the upper in position on the last, trimming the margin of the upper to a predetermined width, placing a sole member on the last with the marginal portion of said sole member split inwardly from its edge face to form inner and outer flaps approximately as wide as the trimmed margin of the upper,

applying cement to the adjacent surfaces of said flaps and to the margin of the upper, locating said margin. betweensaid flaps, supporting the last and sole member against movement away from each other heightwise of the last, and introducing fluid pressure between the last and the inner surface of th sole member while holding the upper clamped in position against the last to press the inner flap of said sole member against the upper margin and to press said marthe last bottom and against a temporary sole piece resting thereon to cause the margin to V become attached by cement to the temporary sole piece to hold said margin in a turned-in overlasted position, severing the temporary sole piece along the inner edge of said overlasted margin after .the cement has set and removing it from the last, placing a sole member on the last with its marginal portion split inwardly to form inner and outer flaps, insertng the turnedin margin of the upper between said flaps with cement on said margin and said flaps, supporting the last and sole member against movement away from each other, and, while clamping the lower portion of the upper against the last to prevent displacement of said margin from between said flaps, introducing fluid pressure betweeii the last and sole member to press the inner flap and said margin against the outer flap of the sole member and thereby cause said sole member to become cement attached to the shoe upper.

8. That improvement in methods of making shoes which comprises mounting an upper on a last and applying'cement to the inner side of its margin, wiping said margin over the last and against a temporary sole piece covering the last bottom, thereby causing said margin to become attached to said temporary piece by cement to hold the margin in overlasted position, severing the temporary sole piece along the inner edge of the overlasted margin andremoving the sever'ed portion from the last after the cement has set to stiffen said margin sufficiently to cause it to remain in overlasted position without the aid of said temporary sole piece, placing a sole member on the last with its marginal portion split inwardly to form inner and outer flaps around the entire sole member, inserting the overlasted margin of the upper between said flaps with cement on said margin and said flaps, securing the upper against the last by clamping means to prevent displacement of said margin from between said flaps, mounting the last and sole member upon a bed having a rigid surface complemental to the shape which'the sole member is to have in the finished shoe, holding the last and bed against movement relatively to each other, and, while maintaining th upper against the last by said clamping means, introducing fluid pressure between the last and the sole member to apply pressure to said sole member to press said inner flap and upper against said outer flap while simultaneously pressing the sole member with uniform pressure against the bed, thereby attaching the upper between the flaps of the sole member by cement and imparting to said sole member the shape of the rigid surface of said bed.

11. That improvement in methods of making shoes which comprises mounting an upper on a last and clamping it thereon at least adjacent to the last; bottom, applying cement to member on the last with the marginal portion of the sole member split inwardly from its edge fac and parallel to its opposite surfaces to provide inner and outer flaps completelyaround said sole member, locating the stiflened margin of the upper between said flaps with cement on said margin and said flaps, engaging the lower portion of the upper to said margin out from ween said flaps, supporting the last and sole member to prevent relative movement tl fereof away from each other, and, while continuing to engage the lower portion of the upper, introducing fluid pressure between the last and the sole member to apply pressure outwardly against the surface of said sole member to press said inner and outer flaps and said margin together to cement attach the sole member permanently to the upper.

9. That improvement in methods of making shoes which comprises mounting an upper on a last and placing a sole member thereon which has its marginal portion split inwardly from its edge face to form inner and outer flaps, inserting the margin of the upper in the space between said flaps with cement on said margin and said flaps, clamping the upper against the last to prevent said margin from leaving said space, supportingthe last and sole member against movement away from each other upon a rigid surface complemental to the shape which the sole member is to have in the finished shoe, and introducing fluid pressure between the last and the sole member to apply uniform pressure to said sole member to press the inner fiap and ,th upper margin against said outer flap and also to pressthe sole member outwardly against said rigid surface, thereby attaching the sole 7 shoes which comprises mounting an upper on a last with its margin located in overlasted position relatively to the last bottom, placing a sole revent movement of the margin of the upper and wiping it inwardly over the last bottom and against a temporary sole piece to hold said margin in overlasted position by cement, severing the temporary sole piece along the inner edge of the upper margin and removing the severed portion after the cement has set to stifien said margin and cause it to remain in a turned-in overlasted position without being held, placing a sole member on the last with its marginal portion split inwardly from its edge face to form inner and outer flaps, inserting the turned-in margin of the upper between said flaps with cement on said margin and said flaps, supporting the last and sole member to prevent relative movement thereof away from each other, and, while maintaining the upper clamped against the'last to hold said margin between said flaps, introducing fluid pressure between the last and the sole member to press the inner flap and the upper margin outwardly against the outer flap and thereby attach the sole member to the upper by cement.

12. That improvement in methods of making shoes which comprises mounting an upper on a last and clamping it thereon entirely around the last adjacent to the last bottom, applying cement to the margin of the upper and wiping said margin inwardly over the last bottom against a temporary piece covering said last, bottom, thereby securing said margin by cement to the temporary piece, severing the temporary piece along the inner edge of the upper margin and removing the severed portion after the cement has set sufliciently to stiffen said margin and cause it to remain unsecured in a turned-in, overlasted position, placing a sole member on the last with its marginal portion split to form inner and outer flaps at least as wide as the overlasted margin of the upper, inserting the turned-in margin of the upper between said flaps with cement on said margin and said flaps. supporting the last and sole member upon a bed having a rigid surface thereon complemental in shape to that which the sole member is to have in the finished shoe, holding the last and bed against movement relatively to each other heightwise of the last, and introducing fluid pressure between the last and the sole member.

to apply pressure outwardly against the surface of said sole member to press the inner flap of th sole member and the upper margin outwardly against the rigidly supported outer flap and to press the sole member against said bed with I uniform pressure for each unit of bottom area, thereby attaching the sole member to the upper by cement and conforming the entire sole member to the shape of the rigid surface of the bed.

13. That improvement in methods of making shoe which comprises locating a shoe upper. in

overlasted position on a last the bottom of which is formed by an inflatable vessel mounted in a recess in the .last, placing on said last bottom a sole member having its marginal portion split to form inner and outer flaps at least as wide as the overlasted margin of the upper, inserting said overlasted margin between said flaps with cementon said margin and said flaps, holding the upper against the last to prevent said margin from coming out from between said flaps, and, while supporting the lastand the sole member against relative movement away from each other, introducing fluid pressure into said vessel to cause the latter to expand between thelast and the sole member and to press the inner flap and .the upper margin outwardly against th outer flap of the sole member, thereby causing the sole inserting the margin of the upper between said inner and outer flaps with cement on said margin and said flaps, supporting the last and sole member against movement out of their relative positions with the outer surface of the sol member engaging a rigid stationary surface complemental to th shape that is desired on the sole member in the finished shoe, and, while engaging the upper to prevent its margin from being forced out from between said flaps, inflating said vessel to press the inner-flap of the sole member and the upper margin against the rigidly supported outer flap of said sole member, and also to press the sole member outwardly against said rigid surface, thereby attaching the sole member to the upper by cement and simultaneously conforming the sole .member to the shap of said rigid surface.

15. That improvement in methods of attaching heels to shoes which comprises locating a heel relatively to a shoe on a last with the heel in position to be attached to the sole of the shoe andwith cement on the attaching face of the heel and on the opposing surface of the sole of th shoe, supporting the heel and the last and shoe against movement relatively to each other thereby preventing movement of the sole and the heel away from each other, and introducing fluid pressure between the last and the sole to press said sole outwardly against the attaching fac of the heel and to cause said sole to be conformed to the shape of said attaching face so that all portions ofthe opposing surfaces of said sole and heel are brought into actual contact with each other, thereby cement attaching the heel to the shoe.

16. That improvement in methods of attaching heels to shoes which comprises locating a heel on the bottom of a shoe on a last with the heel in position to be attached to the shoe and with cement on the attaching fac of the heel and on the corresponding surface of the sole portion of the shoe, engaging the 1ast and the sole portion to be conformed to the shape of the attaching face of th heel to bring all portions shoe and the heel and supporting them in their relative positions thereby holding the shoe and the heel against movement away from eachother, and introducing fluid pressure between the last and the sole portion of the shoe to press said sole portion outwardly against the attaching face of the heel and thereby attach the heel.

to the shoe by cement, said pressure causing said of said sole portion and the attaching face of the heel into complete engagement with each other while the heel is being cement attached to the shoe. I

17. That improvement in methods of attaching heels to shoes which comprises mounting a shoe on a'last the bottom of which is formed by an inflatable vessel located in a recess in the last, applying cement to the heel portion of the sole of said shoe, applying cement to the attaching face of a heel and placing the heel in an opening formed in a bed and shaped to receive said heel, said bed having a. rigid surface adjacent to said opening for supporting the sole of the shoe, placing the shoe on said bed to bring the heel portion of the sole into engagement with the attaching face of the heel, supporting the the cement sets, thereby attaching the" heel to the shoe.

GEORGE F. RYAN. 

